appalachian trail tales: San Juan Chamula

With the day off from classes, I decided to do a little exploration. I took a ¨combi¨or mini bus about 7 miles north of San Cristóbal to a small village called San Juan Chamula. Chamula is inhabited by the Tzotzil Mayan who speak both Spanish and Tzotzil. The women wear beautifully colorful and decorative blouses made of silk with a heavy black wrap around wool skirt. The men wear a large white or black wool poncho, a simple collard shirt, pants and a cowboy hat.

Sunday is market day so the streets were filled with different smells, sounds and sights. Women cooking chicken, tamales and chili. Tarps laid out on the main roads and intersections, covered in fruits, vegetables, herbs, flowers, fish, and meats. Children selling little bracelets and nick knacks to tourists. It was a real trip for the eyes :)

The most fascinating aspect of the village was the church. The church is a tall simple structure with wooden beams and plastered walls. When I entered through the main doors, a strong wave of incense invaded my senses. The church was dark with no pews, alters or chairs. No fancy gold adornments or chandeliers. There was some dried corn husks hanging up on the walls, lots of beautiful flower bouquets, thousands of candles, families praying, and children playing. Towards the front and center of the church were three rows of various images and figurines of famous saints. Augustine, Rose of Lima, John the Baptist, James to name a few and of course, Jesus and Mary. The figurines all carried mirrors around their neck. I`m not quite sure what the symbolism is but I like to think it is to remind us of the holiness and sainthood within all of us.

Some persons came into the church carrying candles, lighting them and watching them until their flames blew out, waiting and watching in prayer and chanting. Others walked around in groups, a man carrying a symbolic religious wooden chest, a woman carrying an incense holder and others chanting and praying. Some go alone. One woman in particular, along with her candles and incense, brought in a chicken. My first impression was, ¨oh, she must be taking that chicken to the market,¨ but after seeing other families and individuals with chickens I concluded that it might be part of some ritual ceremony. And seconds after I completed that thought, she took the chicken´s neck, stretched it along her legs, and snapped it to its death. A very literal and grounding way to give thanks for the bountiful protein and nutrients that chickens give us :) I was beside myself!

Below are some pictures from the village, enjoy! Until next time, ¡adiós!

Photo #1: Church of Chamula